Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and tourists equally swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, UNESCO recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a prestigious roster of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this status, it joins a global network of cities metropolises across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "stands as proof of its profound gastronomic legacy and vibrant food ecosystem," according to a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of 70 global destinations around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this historic city is little surprise to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, lively, and eclectic city – the capital of India's largest state – is finally in the global gaze for what has perennially defined its essence: an immense devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a continued discussion from morning until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and elevated to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of culinary innovations, fusing Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates local ingredients but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – lesser-known gems that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a unpretentious joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and demanding. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but note that their children are unwilling to take up the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will motivate more people around the world to explore these narratives and visit the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
