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Whenever curating a roll of London’s best restaurants, one might expect renowned high-end names. However, nestled high among these gastronomic heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu found in a far-flung area of north London.

A Surprise Accolade

This compact Turkish eatery, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a respected gastronomic guide. The recognition has left the family utterly shocked.

“I’m completely astonished,” says a owner’s son, referring to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their humble restaurant securing such a prominent position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

This little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a popular destination, has kept much of its earlier character. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking show, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” says the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the fare, and this eatery more than succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a tender texture.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in bit by bit. As the flavourful mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, imparting it a more intense, toastier and not overly sweet flavour.

Rising Above the Titans

Notably, this modest spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place satisfied for under £25, similar tasting menus at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that price.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is echoed by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Dedication

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I feel truly proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a life outside work but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s success is likely to resonate beyond its own premises. “I think numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the broader significance of this culinary triumph.